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This desert town near Joshua Tree is brimming with new energy thanks to these 9 hip businesses

As someone who has spent a lot of time in the high desert towns of Joshua Tree and Yucca Valley, I’ve long been skeptical of anyone who predicted that Twentynine Palms was about to become the new desert hot spot.

In theory, it makes sense. Located just 20 minutes from downtown Joshua Tree, the town of 29,000 boasts its own, less crowded entrance to the national park and a brand new visitor’s center that opened in 2023. It also has the luxuriously rustic Twentynine Palms Inn, which opened in 1928, and a few culinary gems like Rib Co. for barbecue and the Jelly Donut for pho.

But Twentynine Palms is both a few degrees warmer than Joshua Tree and a longer drive from L.A. It also lies outside the natural range of the spiky Joshua trees that lend its better-known neighbors so much of their otherworldly ambiance (not to mention their Instagram appeal). And then there’s Twentynine Palms’ noticeably high concentration of barbershops, fast food restaurants and tattoo parlors, which makes sense for the 20,000 active-duty Marines and sailors and their families stationed at the local Marine Corps base, but may be less enticing for weekend tourists.

“We used to call it Twentynine pizza parlors,” one longtime Yucca Valley resident told me.

And yet, after spending several days in Twentynine Palms this winter, I have become a believer. There’s a new energy in town and a bunch of folks who have put their life savings into starting creative small businesses that appeal to both tourists and the local community. Many of these new business owners, like Sara Lyons of the craft beverage store Scorpion Lollipop and Francoise Lazard of the fashionable Desert General, are longtime desert lovers who moved to Twentynine Palms permanently during the upheaval of the pandemic.

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Their timing may have been fortuitous. In the past year, with the help of the newly created Public Arts Advisory Committee, local businesses have hosted a comedy festival, a book festival, a classic car show and a holiday market. At the same time, restaurants like the gastropub Grnd Sqrl, the newly opened 29 Beer Co. brewery, the casual Outpost 29 and the atmospheric Kitchen in the Desert are offering tourists and locals more culinary opportunities than pizza. And after the L.A. fires, there may be an even greater influx of visitors to the desert as some relocate and others seek cleaner air.

“Twentynine has always had an artsy community, and it’s always been a tourist town, but it can be isolating out here,” said Jessica Sable, an artist who grew up in Twentynine Palms and now works at the art and design store Very Very. “The owners of these new businesses all live in town, and that’s what we want.”

Talk to any of the new shop owners, and they’ll tell you that running a business in Twentynine Palms is no fairy tale. Several promising businesses have shuttered over the past few years, including the beloved Out There Bar, a local watering hole in an old A&W Root Beer stand. But those who continue to hang on remain hopeful. There are a couple new hotels in the works, an escape room is coming soon and an art-themed mini-golf course called Mojaveland is hoping to break ground in 2025.

“We’re not Joshua Tree, so we really have to create something for everyone,” said Steve Przybylowski, president of the newly established business owners association Rediscover 29 and owner of the record shop White Label Vinyl. “It’s really hard out here, but what I love about it is the community.”

Will Twentynine Palms be the next teeming desert oasis? Check out these nine businesses on your next visit and decide for yourself.

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Jess Sabel straightens the shirt display at Very Very, an eclectic gift shop
Jess Sabel straightens the shirt display at Very Very, an eclectic gift shop inside Corner 62 off 29 Palms Highway
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Very Very

Twentynine Palms Gift Shop
I wasn’t planning on buying a wreath made of creosote and juniper when I walked into Very Very, a small, perfectly curated shop just off 29 Palms Highway, but it was so pretty, I couldn’t resist. And then there was the tantalizing assortment of luxe nail polishes by Death Valley Nails, including the shimmering “The bathroom after she shaves,” which promised to change color from pale lavender to bright purple depending on the temperature. I snapped that up too.

That seemed like enough unbudgeted purchases for one day, but then the rack of matte postcards of the high desert shot by Very Very co-owner Rich Good, a British graphic designer who plays guitar in the British new wave band the Psychedelic Furs, started calling my name, so I had to have a few of those as well.

I could easily imagine myself wearing Good and his partner Dana Longuevan’s branded “Other Desert Cities” T-shirt, and there were a few pieces of jewelry that I also considered buying, but by then I was trying desperately to practice self-restraint. It only sort of worked. I returned two days later to buy six more bottles of nail polish to give to friends, proving that for me at least, Good and Longuevan’s Very Very is a very wonderful, very dangerous store.

Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday and Monday; closed Tuesday.
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Scorpion Lollypop sells greeting cards along with craft beer inside Corner 62 off 29 Palms Highway
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Scorpion Lollipop

Twentynine Palms Wine Shop
Sara Lyons knew she wanted to open a craft beverage store when she moved out to Twentynine Palms full time in 2022, she just didn’t think she’d do it right away. But less than two months after she relocated from Anaheim, a friend mentioned a storefront had opened on the corner of 29 Palms Highway and Yucca Avenue across the street from the new Joshua Tree National Park visitor’s center. The location was too good to pass up, so Lyons and her husband Josh Grelock launched their business ahead of schedule.

Now the cheerful store, Scorpion Lollipop, which specializes in natural wines, craft beers and nonalcoholic beverages, has been up and running for two years. The bright space with accents of hot pink and turquoise and a row of chicken dolls by local artist Lauren Wolpert lining one wall is filled out with gift items including an enticing greeting card selection, well-priced tarot-inspired art prints, cute buttons and nail art.

Running a business in Twentynine Palms hasn’t always been easy, but two years in, Lyons said they’ve finally found their footing and she’s hopeful about the future. “There’s a really good sense of community here,” she said. “We definitely cater to tourists, but half of our customers are people from the community.”

Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday through Saturday; 11a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday, Monday and Sunday; closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
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A turntable plays an album at White Label Vinyl record store inside Corner 62 off 29 Palms Highway
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

White Label Vinyl

Record store
Steve Przybylowski picked up his small, black dog, Cannoli, and placed her in the sling that hung across his torso. “There are a lot of weirdos out here in 29 Palms,” he said, standing behind the counter of his inviting record store, White Label Vinyl. “Sometimes I think of it as the Island of Misfit Toys.”

Przybylowski quit his L.A. marketing job to move out to the desert in 2020. “It was like a mass exodus,” he said. “You couldn’t rent a U-Haul.” After settling in, he decided to turn a longtime side gig selling records into a full-time effort and opened White Label Vinyl in a storefront across the street that was about half the size of where he is now. “It’s been good,” he said. “I’m growing.” He’s also become a landlord. He and his wife bought the Corner 62 building where his record store now shares space with other independent stores.

White Label Vinyl offers an extensive selection of new and used records, CDs and a few cassette tapes ranging in price from $5 to $50. The eclectic tastes of the Twentynine Palms population of writers, painters, hippies and ex-military folks are represented in the music Przybylowski sells: offerings in classic rock and heavy metal along with the occasional Timothy Leary album, plus reissues and contemporary music. When I walked in he was playing “Excellent Traveler,” a 2024 ambient record by guitarist Nate Mercereau, who had recently played a free show in the building’s courtyard organized by the business owners. “It was good for us, and it was good for the community,” Przybylowski said.

Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, or by special appointment.
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The Hi-Desert Bookstore has more than 300 different magazines inside Corner 62 off 29 Palms Highway on January 5, 2025 in Twentynine Palms California.
The Hi-Desert Bookstore has more than 300 different magazines inside Corner 62 off 29 Palms Highway on January 5, 2025 in Twentynine Palms California.
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Hi-Desert Times Magazines

Twentynine Palms Shopping
Liz Lapp was lamenting that there were no magazine shops in the high desert when she moved to nearby Yucca Valley from Playa Vista in 2020. As a magazine lover raised on zines, she had to travel to the Kosher News on Fairfax or Book Soup in West Hollywood to get her fix. Finally, her husband suggested they launch a local magazine shop of their own, and the store Hi-Desert Times Magazines was born. “I had to dip into my retirement fund to do it,” Lapp said. “I need to die in this space to make it worthwhile.”

Lapp purchased a poster-sized cover of Interview magazine featuring Jodi Foster and built her shop around that, working with a local carpenter to build out custom shelves that feature a wide range of glossies like Vogue and GQ, smaller art publications like Catnip and Calling All Horse Girls, zines by local makers and a growing number of books. “I want to allow for curiosity instead of just following some algorithm,” she said. Inspired by New York bodegas, she also sells an assortment of some of her favorite snacks, including Flowerhead Tea, Omsom noodles and Heyday Canning Co. beans.

When she opened in July 2023, she was surprised and delighted by the reception her shop received, including getting covered by the local radio station Z 107.7. “I think people couldn’t believe we were doing something that wasn’t going to make any money,” Lapp said. “This is a true passion project.”

Hours: 11 a.m to 5 p.m. Friday, Sunday and Monday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; closed Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.
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Desert General store at Tin Town on January 5, 2025 in Twentynine Palms California.
Desert General store at Tin Town on January 5, 2025 in Twentynine Palms California.
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Desert General

Twentynine Palms Shopping
When Francoise Lazard and her husband Patrick Zuchowicki opened Desert General two years ago, they conceived of it as an eco goods store specializing in environmentally friendly items like biodegradable cleaning products. “It was a terrible idea,” said Lazard, looking elegant in white jeans and cherry red cowboy boots. “Nobody wanted it.” Fortunately, the desert is all about trial and error, so they quickly pivoted, creating their own unique version of a small desert town general store. Almost immediately, business has greatly improved.

Inside the store’s wood-planked interior you’ll find an eclectic assortment of goods including slippers from Japan, garden tools from Denmark, locally made hand salve and bracelet cuffs from France made of horn and semiprecious stone by Lazard’s ex-husband’s current wife. “Each product I have, I know why I have it,” she said in her heavy French accent.

Of particular interest are the three styles of chic cream-colored hats crafted from watertight canvas from Lazard and Zuchowicki’s Mojave Mercantile brand. “You can fill your hat with water and give your horse a drink. It won’t leak,” Lazard told me. Also worth noting is Mojave Mercantile’s small collection of Alta California shirts — these are men’s collared shirts made of the same breathable cotton that the British used to outfit officers stationed in Northern Africa in World War II. The two-pocket design on the front calls to mind Hollywood styles of the ’40s and ’50s. Desert General also runs the small, highly browsable desert-themed bookshop in a separate building nearby with an excellent selection of new and used books.

Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
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Ghost Town Ranch at Tin Town in Twentynine Palms California, January 2025
(Deborah Netburn/ For The Times)

Ghost Town Ranch

Twentynine Palms Shopping
The newest addition to the Twentynine Palms independent retail community is Kate Pawlicki Bourne’s Ghost Town Ranch. Located next door to Desert General, the modest storefront opened in October, just eight weeks before I walked through the door on a late-December evening. Pawlicki Bourne, who operates an online store by the same name, is still in the process of figuring out exactly what her brick and mortar will be.

“Like everyone, I’m pioneering,” she said. “This is my concept space for testing new products.”

The evening I showed up, she was inviting customers to sample a selection of nonalcoholic beverages including my new favorite, Calm, by the San Diego–based company Dromme. It’s a heavily spiced after-dinner drink that gives me the same warming feeling as whiskey. I’ve been enjoying it on the rocks in front of the fireplace ever since I bought a bottle. I also sampled Dromme’s fruitier concoction, Awake, which Pawlicki Bourne recommends serving with sparkling water.

Other items include Ghost Town Ranch’s branded hand and body wash and serum inspired by the desert as well as a curated selection of upscale pantry staples including vodka pasta sauce, organic bone broth and what Pawlicki Bourne swears are the best pickled carrots.

Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; closed Monday through Wednesday.
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Mojave Moon Apothecary sells rock and natural essential oils located at the Historic Plaza
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Mojave Moon Apothecary

Twentynine Palms Apothecary
“Feel free to touch anything and smell anything,” said Paul Razo when I walked into Mojave Moon Apothecary, a warm and earthy shop with bunches of eucalyptus and lavender adorning the walls. I appreciated the invitation: With a center table filled with smooth tumbled stones and shelves lined with natural perfume oils and jars of organic teas and herbs, the store was teeming with things to touch and smell.

Heather Basile, Razo’s partner, started the Mojave Moon brand of perfume and crystal oils and out of her L.A. apartment in 2020. She describes the store as a metaphysical shop without the “meta.” “I wanted to celebrate the natural world,” she said.

Basile and Razo bought a home in Twentynine Palms in 2018 and opened their storefront in September 2023. They have since become instrumental in revitalizing the Historic Plaza where the shop is located. The commercial hub of Twentynine Palms in the 1920s and ’30s, the plaza had fallen into neglect until recently.

In spring 2024, the couple met the owners of Sun of the Desert at a local bar and convinced them to move into the storefront next door. Collectively, the two businesses launched a nonprofit, Friends of the Historic Plaza, and have started hosting events in the plaza’s parking lot, including a car show in the fall and a winter market at the end of 2024. A chalk festival and art fair will be coming in March.

Open Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Monday through Thursday.
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Sun of the Desert sells vintage and new hipster desert gear located at the Historic Plaza
Sun of the Desert sells vintage and new hipster desert gear located at the Historic Plaza
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Sun of the Desert

Twentynine Palms Shopping
One of the best-selling items at Sun of the Desert is a graphic tee depicting a skeleton fishing in a motorboat. “Maybe this is how it ends,” reads the text above the skeleton. On the boat are the words “Lake Bandini.” If you don’t get the joke, you probably don’t work on the Twentynine Palms military base: Lake Bandini is the name of the combat center’s wastewater treatment plant.

“We know where we sit,” said the store’s friendly co-owner Damien Merino. As if on cue, a well-built guy with a trim haircut browsing in the store chimed in: “It’s a great shirt,” he said. “I have to deal with Lake Bandini every day.”

Sun of the Desert, which opened in Twentynine Palms in June, has definite hipster vibes — an excellent selection of vintage workwear, beard balm arranged with other manly toiletries on raw wood tables, a smartly curated display of drink mixers — but Merino and his partner Jimmy Brower have created a store that is just as welcoming to the desert city’s locals as it is to tourists.

Sun of the Desert also has a storefront in Joshua Tree, which Brower and Merino share with the Malibu-based brand Jen’s Pirate Booty, but the couple were thrilled to open a location in the town they’ve called home since 2020. “There was so much happening here, we were feeling FOMO about missing out on Twentynine Palms,” Merino said.

Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
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Vintage hats are for sale at Delilah's at Blockhaus
Vintage hats are for sale at Delilah’s at Blockhaus
(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Delilah's Vintage and Desert's Edge 29

Twentynine Palms Vintage Store
A young woman with dark hair and short bleached bangs came out of the dressing room at Delilah’s Vintage wearing a floral prairie skirt that fitted her perfectly. “I love her!” she exclaimed looking in the mirror. “Aw, she loves you too!” said Liz Wessel, the stylish owner of the vintage boutique. “I call it the punk rock prairie skirt because it’s hot pink and black. It’s going to look so cute with fishnets and combat boots.”

Pick up any item in the pleasantly cluttered space Delilah’s Vintage shares with the vintage Western wear shop Desert’s Edge 29 and Wessel will either have a story to tell you about it or an idea on how to style it. As her young customer tried on more clothes, Wessel showed me a vintage desk she’d recently received that had a typewriter bolted to it. “You’re typing, typing and then voila,” Wessel said, activating a hidden mechanism that caused the typewriter to flip upside down revealing a smooth table top. “Now you can eat a sandwich.”

Next she brought me over to a floor lamp from the 1950s that was also a side table. “Is it a table, is it a lamp, it it a lamp, is it a table?” she said. “This one was handmade, probably in the ’50s, but she came without a shade so I had to find her a new hat.”

Wessel and Desert’s Edge 29 owner Jennifer Robinson are colleagues, friends and recently had Thanksgiving together. They also take turns helming the shop and are intimately familiar with each other’s inventory. During my visit, Wessel pointed out a glass-topped coffee table resting on the back of two swan statues and a cowboy hat with rattlesnake head on it, both of which are in the Desert’s Edge 29 part of the space.

As an added bonus, next door to their combined space you’ll find Amber McCalden’s Desert Dreamin’ Outpost, yet another vintage shop in this small retail complex, making it a great one-stop spot for a desert treasure hunt.

Delilah’s Vintage and Desert’s Edge 29 are open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday.
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