Billy’s provides a great dine with a view

Stephen Santacroce

The sea has always had a strong allure for most people, and most

coastal towns’ restaurants that are intent on making the view part of

their overall dining experience populate a good portion of the

waterfront.

Seaside restaurants are popular with locals and tourists alike.

The former take pride in their luck for living in such a picturesque

area, and the latter want to spend as much of their vacation dollars

as possible on or near the water.

Unfortunately, it seems like most waterfront restaurateurs focus

more on the setting than on the menu, the result being a decided lack

of true quality dining. Nevertheless, anytime I have visitors, I am

invariably asked if we can dine by the water, and I feel obliged to

accommodate them.

One of the spots I like to take my out-of-town guests is Billy’s

at the Beach, perched on Coast Highway with beautiful view of the

bay. Billy is Billy Craig, a longtime Newport resident who has run

the restaurant with son Rick since it opened in 1993. Today, Rick

handles most of the management chores, while dad handles the local

PR.

Through trial and error, I’ve decided that simple is best when it

comes to waterfront dining. For the most part, Billy’s succeeds when

it tries to be the least pretentious. The theme at Billy’s is 1960s

Hawaiian. Rattan-lined walls sport Gauguin replicas and prints of

Hawaiian surf scenes and are accented with bamboo posts. The carpets

and upholstery feature tropical prints, and the overall atmosphere is

casual and relaxing. Of course, the main dining room has one wall

taken up by floor to ceiling glass windows fronting Newport Harbor.

To the right, as one enters, is the Tiki Bar, always crowded with

local revelers. Past the bar is a doorway leading to an outdoor patio

that opened in September and features seating for al fresco dining,

as well as another full bar for outdoor partying. The only way to

dine closer to the water would be on a boat.

The signature drink at the Tiki Bar is the mai tai (you were

expecting White Russians?), a potent blend of fruit juices and light

and dark rums. It’s a refreshing libation that definitely conjures up

images of the islands, but be forewarned -- have more than one, and

you’ll probably see other images, as well. Definitely have a

designated driver if mai tais are part of your game plan.

Judging by the crowds at both bars, Billy’s is a popular hangout

to people-watch and enjoy the live bands that entertain on the

weekends.

Most patrons will want some food to accompany their cocktails, and

Billy’s offers a varied selection of starters to munch on while

sipping a cold one. While the restaurant has a Polynesian theme, the

menu, at least the appetizers section, features a variety of

offerings, including steamed clams ($10.95) that’d feel at home on a

Boston pub menu. Generous portions of littleneck clams are steamed

just until tender and served in their broth with a side of garlic

bread. The clams are plump, and the broth savory. I just would have

liked a wider bowl so the clams on top wouldn’t dry out as fast.

Two different ahi appetizers are offered: one served rare, sashimi

style ($10.95), and a seared version ($9.95). I prefer the latter.

The tuna is crusted in black sesame seeds and seared to just crisp

the outside, leaving the inside rare, and served with a light

mustard-infused cream sauce.

I wasn’t as crazy about the barbecued pork ribs ($7.95). The ribs

were meaty and tender, but I didn’t like the tomato-based barbecue

sauce that was slathered all over them. Maybe I was expecting

something more Asian style. Whatever the case, I found these ribs

unappetizing.

The main menu features mostly steaks and shellfish. A page of

daily specials highlights all of the fresh fish offerings.

As I mentioned above, simple is best at Billy’s. The steaks are

all generous cuts of prime corn-fed beef that are thickly sliced and

grilled to order. The petite filet ($25.95) and the New York strip

($28.95) are my favorites. All entrees at Billy’s come with their

house salad, vegetables and a choice of rice or baked or twice-baked

potato.

I thought Billy’s did a great job with the swordfish ($28.95),

which is also cut thick and simply grilled over an open fire. The

fish is moist and flavorful, needing no sauces to enhance its rich

flavor.

I was less impressed when the chef tried to get too fancy.

Pan-seared Opakapaka ($29.95) was a letdown. The fish, Hawaiian pink

snapper, was overcooked, and the corn relish lacked any distinctive

flavor. The relish also contained bacon pieces, which were not

mentioned on the menu and could be a problem for people who don’t eat

red meat.

I had similar problems with the panko and wasabi-crusted salmon

($23.95). The fish was cooked perfectly in this case, but I couldn’t

taste the wasabi in the crusting, and the orange mango sauce

accompanying the dish was too cloying.

The halibut ($27.95), on the other hand, was a great dish. The

fish was coated in macadamia nuts, seared and then served with a

light mango butter sauce. The sauce here was not overpowering,

allowing the delicate flavor of the fish to stand out.

The staff at Billy’s is attentive and helpful. I was particularly

impressed when one of the valets offered to check to see how long a

wait there was on a crowded Saturday before parking our car. Nice

touch.

One of the surprises for me at Billy’s is their extensive wine

list. I wasn’t expecting such a varied list at a place that seems to

cater to the Corona and tequila crowd and was impressed with the good

selection of mostly California and French bottles. Corkage is a

modest $10 for wines not on their list, $20 if they do have the

bottle.

Overall, I enjoy Billy’s. The atmosphere is friendly and upbeat,

conducive to relaxed good times. The new patio is sure to be a hit,

especially in the summer months, and Billy’s is one of the few spots

on the water featuring live entertainment. Stick with the basics on

the menu, and you’ll enjoy a good steak or piece of fish.

Dining on the water is really one of life’s great pleasures, and

Billy’s will remain on my “A” list for anytime I’m looking for a meal

with a view.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other

Thursday. Send him your comments at [email protected].