Tirami Su : <i> It’s the marscarpone and ladyfinger dessert you see everywhere</i> .
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Buon Gusto, 3110 Main St., Santa Monica. (213) 452-4288. Style: Mainstream modern, known for remarkable desserts. Setting: Pilasters, posters, paintings and precious patio. Tirami Su: $4.
Fresco, 514 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 247-5541. Style: Serious contender for best Valley restaurant. Setting: Courtyard with skylight and fake ivy. Tirami Su: $5.
Il Tigullio, 8771 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 273-1166. Style: Haute in a hut. Setting: Shoebox with green awning out on the sidewalk. Tirami Su: $4.50.
La Pergola, 15005 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 905-8402. Style: Neighborhood Italian in the spirit of the new Northern tradition. Setting: Off-white stucco walls with plenty of plants in plastic pots. Tirami Su: $3.50.
Tuttopasta, 417 S. Hill St., Los Angeles. (213) 621-2625. Style: Stepchild of trendy Tuttobene. Setting: Pure plastic set in old Subway Terminal building. Tirami Su: $2.50.
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