Wandering West Pico : <i> Hungry drivers caught on that traffic-heavy stretch of Pico Boulevard, between La Cienega and Bundy, have plenty of places to fill up.</i>

Bellini’s Trattoria, 12021 W. Pico Blvd. (213) 477-4057. Style: Neighborhood trattoria. Setting: Bleak. Recommended: Eggplant and goat cheese calzone; bow-tie pasta with artichoke hearts and walnuts; saffron linguine with fresh tomato coulis . Cost per person: $15-$30.

Delmonico’s Seafood Grille, 9320 W. Pico Blvd. (213) 550-7737. Style: California eclectic with a fish lure. Setting: Old-fashioned with cozy booths. Recommended : Veal ravioli; crab cakes; swordfish; tarte tatin. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Hymie’s Fish Market, 9228 W. Pico Blvd. (213) 550-0377. Style: Old L.A. fish house and market serving loyal customers. Setting: Standard issue. Recommended: Cioppino; fresh seasonal fish. Cost per person: $18-$40.

Osteria Romana Orsini, 9575 W. Pico Blvd. (213) 277-6050. Style: Hearty Italian where the celebrity is king. Setting: Warm and woody. Recommended: Zitoni alla sora nuccia , macaroni with three cheeses, tomatoes and olives; battuta , thinly pounded beef; veal chop. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Thai House, 8657 W. Pico Blvd. (213) 274-5492. Style: Thai, Bohemian-style. Setting: Heavy on the metal. Recommended: Vegetable soup; panang , beef in coconut curry; banana-coconut ice cream. Cost per person: $12-$22.