Pleasing so many senses in Cognac

COGNAC, FRANCE — The sunlit French landscape sliding by my car window captured my attention: crumbling stone walls, tidy farmhouses with red-tile roofs, mile upon mile of low hills and rolling ridges covered with leafy green vineyards.

“You know what you’re seeing?” my guide asked. “The real thing; what Napa and Sonoma wanted to be.”

I laughed at the smugness of the remark. As much as I love Northern California’s wine country, he had a point: The original wins, hands down. Visiting our wine country can’t compare with spending a few lazy days exploring the back roads of France. In fact, a traveler with unlimited resources could while away years getting to know the republic’s wine regions: Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhone and Loire valleys.

Because my resources aren’t quite boundless, I visit one at a time. This trip took me to western France and the Cognac region, where the world’s most famous brandy originates.

I once thought Cognac appealed solely to aging British army colonels who wore monocles and dressed in tuxedos. But singer Kanye West’s obvious affection for the beverage during last month’s MTV Video Music Awards -- you remember his onstage outburst about Beyonce, of course -- made me reconsider.

The U.S. accounts for more than 50% of Cognac shipments worldwide. We drink about 50 million bottles a year, no small matter, considering that Cognac ranks as one of the world’s most expensive beverages, costing as much as $28,000 a bottle.

Regardless of price, Americans seem to enjoy the amber liquid, from the Beverly Hills Hotel, where patrons sip Remy Martin sidecars, to midtown Manhattan’s Brasserie Cognac, which features nearly 100 varieties. Snoop Dogg, Dr. Dre, Busta Rhymes and Devino Fortunato like it so well they rap about it.

The drink’s mounting popularity seemed a good reason to visit Cognac’s homeland. The only thing better than visiting France for its scenery and cuisine: visiting it for its wine, scenery and cuisine, in fall at harvest.

Brandy and a view

Technically, Cognac is more than a wine. Its grapes begin their long journey to the marketplace as unfiltered white wine. After being doubly distilled, the liquid ages, sometimes for many years, in oak casks before being blended with other vintages or eaux de vie (French for “waters of life”).

All of this takes place in or near the town of Cognac, on the banks of the Charente River, about a three-hour TGV train ride southwest of Paris. The region may be known for its brandy, but I also tried to focus on its other charms.

I didn’t have to look far. The pace is enjoyably slow, the climate pleasantly mild. The river winds through the countryside, its tranquil waters reflecting images of vine-covered hillsides, small towns, well-tended farms and weathered chateaux framed by geraniums, pink roses and oleander bushes.

My visit began in Cognac, where I spent an afternoon visiting its old town (Vieille Ville). Half-timbered 15th century to 17th century houses line steep, winding streets, and I wandered the cobblestone lanes, shooting pictures of the Romanesque church of St. Leger and the sprawling Chateau de Cognac, the birthplace of the 16th century King Francois I. Then I wandered by a museum that focuses on Cognac and its history. (Musee des Arts du Cognac, www.ville-Cognac.fr, 011-33-5-45-32-07-25)

But the thought of merely reading about the rich, smoky liquid made me impatient. I had come nearly 6,000 miles to drink Cognac. Why wait any longer? With single-minded purpose, I inquired about touring one of the great Cognac houses: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin or Courvoisier. Each has tours, and the price -- from about $10 to $25 -- includes tasting.

I was so close I could have thrown a cork and hit Hennessy’s tour center and warehouses, on both sides of the Charente (Hennessy Cellars, www.hennessy.com, 011-33-5-45-35-72-66).

A small boat delivered me to the tour site, where I joined a group of visitors. As I walked through the well-landscaped grounds, I noticed stonework that was black with mold; I’d seen the same thing on many of the buildings when I walked through the town of Cognac. “The angel’s share,” I was told. The mold, called black velvet, feeds on the alcohol vapors that escape through evaporation as the liquid ages.

Does divine intervention play a part in the manufacture of Cognac? “Definitely,” the guide said. “God still decides whether a year will be great or not.”

We entered a warehouse cellar, and I was struck by the heady fragrance of Cognac. The angel’s share takes credit for this too, my tour group was told. “About 2% to 4% of the alcohol evaporates through the pores of the oak barrels,” the guide said.

No wonder angels always look contented.

Soon I was in the tasting room and looking contented too.

I swirled the liquid in my glass, sniffed it shallowly, and then took a small taste: the smooth, complex flavors included honey and licorice. I tasted a bit more and became even more contented. Especially when I remembered three more large Cognac houses awaited.

A visit to sleeping kegs

Next up was Martell, where I learned more about distilling and aging Cognacs ( www.martell.com, 011-33-5-45-36-33-39). Again I visited warehouse cellars, where thousands of kegs slept in the darkness. I breathed deeply, enjoying the aroma.

The kegs in the cellars were huge -- many of them hold more than 100 gallons -- and each bore a date: 1900, 1931, 1950.

The process of creating fine Cognac extends well beyond any person’s lifetime, the guides explained. Cognacs as much as 200 years old are blended with other century-old brandies to make the house’s most prestigious Cognacs.

At Remy Martin, about three miles outside town ( www.remymartin.com, 011-33-545-82-01-26), I hopped on a small train with other tourists, visiting a cooper’s shop, where barrels are produced; a vineyard and cellars. I felt happier each time I entered a cellar, despite the damp darkness. I filled my lungs with the angel’s share again and considered hiding in the back of the cellar when the tour moved on.

Like the other houses, Remy Martin’s history can be counted in generations. It was founded in 1724 by a young grower, and the company’s current master blender, Pierette Richet, is only the fourth in the last 100 years. Her job? “To manage the present and plan for the future,” she said.

As my appreciation for Cognac increased, I learned more about how to drink it.

“Use a glass that has straight sides and is not too thick,” said Vincent Gere, director of Remy Martin Cognacs and Estates. “Swirl the liquid to see the viscosity. Then test the nose twice: once from well above the glass and the second time, just above the glass. This will tell you if the spirit is layered or not.”

Finally, “sip twice, savoring the texture, thickness, viscosity. Look for a balance of flavors and aromas.”

The region’s Cognac houses play host to about 200,000 visitors a year, many of them Americans. That night at dinner I glanced around the room. Many people were drinking Cognac, all of them were swirling, sniffing and savoring.

Three down, one to go

Only one of the large Cognac houses remained in my four-for-four quest: Courvoisier ( www.courvoisier.com, 011-33-5-45-35-56-16). I drove the seven miles through the vineyard-covered countryside to Jarnac, the company’s home.

The pastoral scene entranced me, just as it had during my arrival in the Cognac region. But this time, I understood what I was seeing. Beyond the lovely hills and quaint farms, processes were at work that allowed Cognac to be produced and, in turn, gave these farmers a livelihood that had withstood three centuries of change.

The necessary elements had been drummed into my head as I visited the Cognac houses: The light is bright and intense, the soil chalky and full of stones, the climate mild and tempered by the nearby Atlantic. These ingredients create ideal conditions for the white Ugni Blanc grapes used for Cognac. These grapes “don’t make very good wine, but they make excellent Cognac,” one of the guides said.

Another pleasant scene awaited in Jarnac, which, like Cognac, straddles the Charente River. The peaceful village, home to about 5,000 people, offers great photo ops of parks, picturesque bridges and boats floating down the river.

Then it was on to Maison Courvoisier, which is set up in a refurbished warehouse next to the Charente. Napoleon visited the Courvoisier warehouses in 1811, and legend has it that he took several barrels of the Cognac with him aboard the HMS Northumberland, the ship that took him into exile on the island of St. Helena. Consequently, Courvoisier calls its spirit “The Cognac of Napoleon.”

The tour here is through a museum that reconstructs a blending workshop, which resembles a perfumery; there are also stills and barrels and those wonderful fumes.

After I left the building, I wandered around Jarnac again, watching a mother duck and four ducklings swimming in the Charente in the late afternoon sun. I had visited all the major houses, and because Cognac can be produced only in the Cognac region, I realized, sadly, that my quest had ended.

I brightened. There are about 300 smaller houses in the region. Perhaps my mission hadn’t ended after all. A heady thought indeed.

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If you go

THE BEST WAY TO COGNAC COUNTRY

From LAX, Air Tahiti Nui and Air France offer nonstop service to Paris. United, Delta, Continental, American, Lufthansa and KLM offer connecting flights (change of planes). From LAX to Bordeaux, connecting service is offered on Air France, KLM and British Airways. Restricted round-trip for fares begins at $501, but increases to $575 on Oct. 21.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (international dialing code), 33 (France’s country code), the regional code (5) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY

Chateau de l’Yeuse, 65 Rue de Bellevue, Chateaubernard; 45-36-82-60, www.yeuse.fr. Elegant 19th century mansion overlooking the Charente River; beautiful gardens and fine dining inside or on a terrace above the river. Doubles from $180 a night.

Chateau Saint Martial, 56 Rue des Chabanes, Jarnac; 45-83-38-64, www.chateau.st.martial.free.fr Once the home of a family that produced Cognac, the chateau is now a bed-and-breakfast and is surrounded by a park. Terrace, tennis court, swimming pool. Doubles from $132 a night.

Hotel la Residence, 25 Avenue Victor Hugo, Cognac; 45-36-62-40, www.hotellaresidence-cognac.com. Functional rooms in a city hotel. Sitting room and breakfast room. Doubles from $81 per night.

WHERE TO EAT

Taverne du Coq d’Or, Place Francois 1er, Cognac; 45-82-02-56, www.tavernecoqdor.com/

english.html. This Art Deco-style restaurant, recently renovated, features Limousin beef and fresh ingredients. Entrees from $8.

La Courtine, Parc Francois 1er, Cognac; 45-81-30-54, www.restaurant-la-courtine.fr. This riverside restaurant is about a mile west of Cognac. Sit in the dining room or out on the terrace and enjoy roast duck or the house specialty, poached eggs in red wine with foie gras. Entrees from about $22.

TO LEARN MORE

French Tourist Office, (514) 288-1904 (no overseas prefix needed), www.us.franceguide.com.

Cognac tourism, 45-69-79-09, www.visitcharente.com.